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Gardening Tips for Daffodils, Tulips and Peonies

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Preparing the Soil for Planting Tulips

 

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Organic material 

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Heavy Clay Soil

Preparing the soil for planting bulbs is important.  For tulips the soil pH should be 6.0 to 7.0 or neutral.  Heavy clay soils are not desirable, so poor soils should be amended with organic matter like compost, peat moss or your own compost pile before planting. Loamy soil is ideal.  Tulips will do well in full sun or partial shade.  In full sun, some extra water on hot spring days will extend flower life and allow the bulbs to mature properly after flowering. 

When I lived in Palo Alto, California where I had heavy clay soil, I used a three foot square half inch screen build with a wooden frame set on saw horses to separate my soil from hard lumps and rocks and added a large pile of aged redwood debris that had accumulated under the largest redwood in the city.  It made a wonderul, fluffy soil which maintained the water holding quality of the clay with the added benefit of organic matter providing spaces for oxygen, nutrients and water.  

Tulips: What to Buy, When and How to Plant Tulips

 
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My listing of tulips available on my price list, are tulips that I have grown for many years and are my favorites.  I have grown many which are not on that list, but these are among the most beautiful and reliable of those available that I can still obtain.  There have been few new tulips over the twenty six years that I have been in business.   Many older ones which were wonderful, are no longer available.  One of my very favorite tulips was expensive, had a yellow satin lining with a pale yellow cream outside was replaced with a poor substitute under the same name (and of course, same price!).  Sometimes, bulb suppliers will substitute a similar "color" for one that was ordered.  I have learned to avoid those suppliers.
Tulips are ordered and delivered in the fall of the year.  In cold areas, they can be planted immediately and they do not need pre-chilling and it is much easier to plant them when the weather is pleasant and the ground not frozen. Pre-chilling makes them stronger and of equal height.  Check and discard any bulbs with rot on the basal plate which will affect the growth of the bulb. Blue mold, nicks and missing skins do not affect the viability of the bulb as long as the basal plate in not damaged or rotting. 
Dig down about nine inches, and if they are to be left in the ground, dig in a handful of bulb meal or bone meal into the soil below where the bulbs will sit being careful not to let the meal touch the bottom of the tulip bulbs, as it could burn the roots of the bulb.  Add about one inch of soil and then arrange the bulbs so that they are about 4" apart with the points facing upward. Replace the soil and water them in if no rain is forecast.
In warm weather climates, chill the tulip bulbs for about 8 weeks before planting them in the same way as mentioned above.  As tulips will not rebloom reliably, the addition of bone meal or bulb food is not necessary.
In the photo above, daffodils and muscari are mixed into the border planting along with the tulips.  They will return in the cold climates, but will not in warm climates.
Why won't tulips rebloom in warmer climates?
There is an interesting answer to this question.  In Holland where many of the tulips bulbs are grown, they are artifically made larger by mowing the tulip fields to cut off their heads just as they are about to bloom.  This forces the bulb to grow larger.  "French Tulips" are forced for a second year, and as a result for either group, the bulbs cannot wait to divide when they finally are allowed to bloom!  Thus, the result is many small bulbs that are too small to bloom and just send up green shoots.  These are replanted in Holland or in cold climates to grow on.  In warm climates, only about 20% of tulips will rebloom, but they are smaller blooms with varying heights, and certainly not the showy groupings of the first year.
I treat tulips as annuals, thank them for their efforts and pull them out after blooming to make room for annuals or to leave the bed neater.

Tulips and Daffodils in Masses and for Landscaping

 
Actea daffodils,tulips,muscari
Oh, the beauty of massed tulip and daffodil bulbs cannot be beat!

How Deep Should Bulbs be Planted? Tulips, Daffodils, Small Bulbs

 

The usual rule of thumb is to plant bulbs three times the distance from base to shoulder of the bulb.  There are exceptions which I will go into at the end of this post.

Large daffodil bulbs,number 1 daffodils,#1 daffodils,dutch master daffodils

These large #1 size daffodil bulbs are the largest available and not found in nurseries.  The planting dept of these triple bulbs is measured from the base to where the bulb begins to narrow, or the shoulder.  If that measurement is 3", then the bulb is planted with 6" of soil above the bulb.

buld planting depth chart,tulips,daffodils,crocus,anemones

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bulb chart planting depth,tulips,small bulbs

These charts indicate that the general planting depth for tulips is 8", daffodils is 6+ inches, spring blooming crocus is 2", and anemones go down 1-1/2".  The fall blooming Crocus Sativus is planted 4" deep.

In my case, I plant tulips shallowly and treat them like annuals so that they are easy to pull out and throw away after they bloom, as they need very cold weather to naturalize.

The Giant Scilla is an exception as it stands with about a third of the bulb above soil level!

Peonies are planted very shallowly with the pink or white buds 1/2 inch below ground level.

Of course, the soil should be well amended and loosened before planting if possible.

When to Order Bulbs, Corms, Roots - Daffodils, Crocus Sativa, Peonies

 

Bulbs can be ordered at any time during the year, but the delivery is usually from September through January for spring flowering blooms.  Spring crocus (which needs pre-chilling) and fall blooming, Crocus Sativus (which does not require chilling) are available.

Crocus Sativa,saffron,corm,fall bloom,fal blooming

Crocus Sativus pictured above is a fall blooming, warm climate corm which blooms 2" high and is a nice filler around other plants and naturalizes.  The red stigmas can be pinched off during the blooming period for use in cooking.

Daffodils arrive in the fall and can be planted all thoough the months just short of the spring blooming time.  Some narcissus (special hybrids) will start blooming in September and some others every month through April.

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Early blooming varieties like February Gold, Trevithian, and Golden Dawn are followed by Ice Follies, Scarlet O'Hara, Dutch Master and latest varieties which are Unsurpassable, Salome, Cheerfulness, Yellow Cheerfulness and Thalia.

Peonies can be ordered at anytime and are usually delivered in the fall, but can be planted into January or later if need be.  They can be dug up and moved anytime except while they are blooming.

Tulips are best ordered early so that there is time to refrigerate them for 8 weeks or so.  I refrigerate all of my tulips until they are sold or until November/December when customers are ready to plant locally.

Bulbs are really pretty foolproof!

 

Bulbs, Corms, Roots - Tulips, Daffodils, Anemones and Peonies

 

What are bulbs and corms?

Everyone is familiar with the basic and most popular bulbs like tulips and daffodils which are true bulbs, but corms are important and popular as well.  Anemones, ranunculous, gladiolus and crocus are corms.  A corm is defined as an swollen, underground stem that contains food stored for the plant.

ranunculous,planted points downcrocus sativa,corm planted point up

 

The corm on the left is a ranunculous and it is planted with the points down, as the stems and blooms emerge from the top.  On the right is crocus sativa showing roots beginning to emerge.  The pointed top of this corm is planted up and it looks very much like a bulb.

 

anemone corm,planted rough side up

Anemones are strange looking corms and vary between the single and double varieties.  The slightly rough looking spot is planted up.

Iris and peonies are roots.  They die back and the food is held in the roots for further bloom.


How to Store Bulbs - Tulips, Daffodils, Dark, Dry, Cool Conditions

 

Bulbs are dormant when they have died back to nothing more than the brown, dried, fat root. That root has all of the nutrition that it will need for the next year's successful bloom.  It is important to keep bulbs cool and in dark, dry conditions until they are planted, whether they have been dug out of the ground after dying back or are fresh and new from the grower or supplier.

tulipbulbs400 resized 600

Some bulbs need to be chilled before planting in warm weather climates, like most of California and in the southern states.  Tulips need chilling for about 6-8 weeks or longer if that is most convenient.  I have planted tulips bulbs that have been left over and with almost 14 weeks of refrigeration and they have bloomed nicely.  On one occasion, I planted some Darwin Hybrid tulips on April 1 after 22 weeks of chlling and they bloomed 2 weeks later with no roots! 

Freesia, hyacinth, saffron crocus, and lilies need refrigeration if they are not planted after receiving them to keep them from beginning to keep the roots from beginning to grow. Daffodils do not need chilling but they do need to be kept in dark, dry storage as in a garage until time to plant.  Other bulbs like giant scilla, lycoris, ranunculous, anamones and other warm weather bulbs and corms just need cool, dry, dark conditions.

 

 

 

Fighting Gophers - But Daffodils Have no Fear of Them!

 

Although most of the plantings on my property are not tasty to the gopher, I still have a big population.  I think the family of owls that I discovered this summer has helped to reduce their numbers, just yesterday, I noticed a grouping of new holes with the soil pushed out around the openings to their tunnels.  Daffodils and peonies are not bothered by these rodents as they are toxic in flavor to them, so I thought of putting a daffodil down in the hole as a kind of insult.  They may decide to "unplant" them by pushing them out and away, but the sight of a freshly dug hole just the size for a fat daffodil is very tempting.

barn owl box,barn owl,hunts gophers

This photo taken at dusk shows one of my two baby owls on top of the owl box which stayed empty for several years before attracting the pair of barn owl that produced the young. Whenever I saw them, they never took their eyes off of me, and through a night vision monocular their eyes looked like shiney marbles.

barn owl,hunts gophers,eats gophers

I had an opportunity to catch both babies on the rooftop, but just as I was zooming in, Cedric, my Springer Spaniel rushed at them barking and they flew off.  That was the last time I saw them together as one was usually in the tree next to the box.

 

Naturalizing with Giant Scilla! Largest Bulb in the World?

 
The largest bulb in the world, I believe, is the Giant Scilla.  It has lush large leaves in the fall which die back in the cold winter.  In the spring it blooms on long stems which look like the fox tail lily and are five feet tall.  There is a smaller version called the Delicate Scilla which grows to three feet.  In my garden, the Delicate Scilla looks very similar to the taller one.  The largest scilla has bulbs almost the size of a soccer ball and the smaller one the size of a grapefruit.
giant scilla,foliage,dry,largest bulb
In the spring, the flower stems emerge and bloom with the florettes opening from the bottom up.
giant scilla,delicate scilla,bloom,dry,no water
When in bloom, the bulbs look like naked ladies with part of the bulb visible and no foliage.
Planting the Giant Scilla and the Delicate Scilla:
Prepare the soil with lots of loose material and add sand if the soil is heavy.
I used an old compost pile and added coarse builders sand in order to maximize drainage as these desert adapted bulbs cannot sit in wet ground.  
Part of the bulb should be exposed after planting and these even rose up a little more as they developed roots as you can see in the first photograph. Its roots spread out over a good distance and so are not really useful in pots (plus they could be damaged by frost more easily).  

Glen Ellen's Own Daffodil Hill - By Meg McConahey

 

They are among the most joyous of flowers, inciting a certain delirium when they first start poking their bright heads out of the winter-barren earth.

It's not so much their dazzling beauty; there are more stunning blooms in the garden. It's more their innocent look and early arrival — well before the rhododendrons and roses — that makes daffodils so endearing. Painted the color of the sun and gathered en masse like a big brass band of trumpets, daffodils are the ideal herald of spring.

Some people are content with a little gaggle of daffodils to brighten a flower bed. But for Marde Ross, there is always room for 10,000 more. Over the past eight years or so, she's planted a mind-boggling 160,000 daffodil bulbs on the 10 acres surrounding her Glen Ellen cottage. They line the narrow cobbled pathways that meander over the folds of her hilly 10 acres. They spread through the open grassy meadows and race up and down the hillsides, thousands of sprightly little stalks of yellow and white that pop by for a brief visit, spread their sunshine and then die back until next spring.

In Palo Alto, where she lived for many years, Ross was known as “The Tulip Lady.” But ever since she moved north to the drier, rockier Sonoma Valley, she has gained a reputation as “The Daffodil Lady” for her ever expanding collection of bulbs, which she also sells through a small mail order business she started back in 1985 with her first trip to Holland.

The daffodil show starts with the slender little “February Golds” that arrive in mid-winter. It ends in early April with the last of the later-blooming “Salomen,” which have creamy white petals and cups that open yellow and mature to pink.

“They're just so cheerful,” Ross explains of her daffodil mania as she briskly walks along the stone path during a break in an early spring shower. “They're so colorful and they come up in the spring and are just wonderful.”

But for all their charm, daffodils, botanically known as narcissus, are also attractive on a purely practical basis.

“They come back,” Ross says. “You can plant them all over hillsides here and the gophers and deer won't touch them because they're poisonous to them. And they're pretty foolproof. You really have to mess them up to not have a bulb come up.”

They don't like to be wet, which is one reason many daffodil bulbs may fail to come back the next year. Ross discovered that her rocky hillside soil provides the drainage they need to stay dry during the summer. Put them in a garden or by a lawn where they may get unintended irrigation, and the bulb just might drown and rot.

Ross doesn't pull the bulbs at the end of the season. Most rebloom the next year although few will actually multiply.

“California,” she says, “is really not cold enough for bulbs to multiply. The best you can do is get the same ones to come back.”

Meanwhile she keeps planting, this year adding another 4,000 to what has come to be known among horticultural insiders as “Daffodil Hill,” even though she also grows and sells other flowering bulbs like anemones, Dutch Iris, Hyacinths, Freesia and Lilies.

Her newest discovery shows great promise as a multiplier. It's called “Golden Dawn,” a new daffodil hybrid introduced to her by longtime friend Lucy Tolmach, director of horticulture at Filoli, the historic estate in Woodside. The famed gardens there include an extensive collection of daffodils, some of which have been returning every year for generations. And among the 122 cultivars are 65,000 “Golden Dawns” with their pale yellow and orange flowers, which are apt to multiply like weeds.

In some places, any yellow daffodil is called a jonquil. But that's a misnomer, says Ross. Only some jonquils are actually daffodils. Jonquils are distinguished by their dark green, tube-shaped leaves as compared to daffodils, which have flat, strappy foliage. Jonquils also tend to have clusters of several flowers instead of just one bloom, along with a strong scent.

Ross focuses her interest on large-landscape daffodils, the kind that are bold enough to brighten a large open space. There are the tall, orange-cupped Scarlet O'Haras, adorable little Tete-a-Tetes, and February Gold, which has largely replaced the old King Alfreds for their longevity.

She prefers to plant daffodils in tight groups so they don't look like little lines of soldiers, and advises planting in an odd number like three, five or seven. They should be planted in amended soil with the pointed bulb end up, in a hole that is a good 12 inches in diameter and three times the depth of the bulb. Bulbs can be clustered together, but not touching.

After they bloom, Ross advises, just leave them alone. In most cases, they'll return year after year to trumpet the arrival of a new growing season.

You can reach Staff Writer Meg McConahey at meg.mcconahey@pressdemocrat.com or 521-5204.

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